Pitamaken-Dawson Loop: Or...our new favorite hike of all time!

We have a new winner! This week we tackled a hike that we have been looking at for awhile. It is a long one, and we kept debating whether we wanted to try to get a backcountry permit and take the big packs to stay overnight part of the way in, or just take day packs and make a long day of it. We finally opted to just do it as a day hike. What's wrong with a few more miles, anyways? Glen will always vote for a longer trail if it lightens the pack.

This hike is listed as a "backpackers must-do" hike in our book, and we had heard good things from our Glacier friends. They are all right! The trail is called the Pitamaken-Dawson Loop. It is 17.6 miles.(When we started the hike we thought that it was going to be just over 15, but we missed something when we were reading the description.) It starts at lake level, circles the back side of a mountain, travels past an alpine lake, climbs the side of a mountain, crosses a ridgeline, circles the back of another mountain, more ridge, around a third mountain, and then descends into a valley and back along the lake.

This is a look up at one of the mountains. We will actually be heading behind it later.

Above, is looking down on Oldman Lake where we would have spent the night if we tried to get a backcountry permit. We have climbed up some switchbacks from there to Pitamaken Pass. When we get up there, we not only see this view of where we came from, but we see another valley on the right hand side of us with two lakes. We can also see where we are headed. In that photo, we will be going behind the mountain on the right, across the ridgeline, and behind the mountain on the left around to a valley where we descend.

This is the view from the ridge on Pitamaken Pass of the two lakes on the right side of us as we could also see Oldman Lake on the left of us.

Terry could not resist this "boot shot" from the top of Pitamaken Pass. Needless to say, Glen didn't get anywhere near the edge -- personal growth only goes so far.

After we came over Pitamaken pass we saw a whole herd of bighorns, and climbed up a slope and over a snow field to get behind that mountain you saw earlier on the right side of the photo. This was the view we were treated to on the backside, as another whole valley opened up below us.

This was our lunch spot, and it was so windy we thought we would lose our hats. Hence, hat hair in the photo. Another hiker was so kind as to take this for us as we munched our pepperoni, cheese, Triscuits, and Gatorade. You can see the view behind us, and it was equally as beautiful in front of us.

This photo shows the view in front of us at lunch.

When we finally came around Dawson Pass and could see this view, we could see our ending point...at the far end of that lake. We still had lots of miles to go to make it there, but what a phenomenal hike. We have never had a hike with so much of it above treeline, with so many different viewpoints.

It WAS a LOOONG hike. However, we are glad we did it with light packs. We also know that if we were ever to have anyone ask about overnight stays, that our advice would be to get one or two nights at Oldman Lake. Hike there, drop the gear, take light packs up and over Pitamaken and around to Dawson, then go back to Oldman Lake and out the same way. The Dawson Pass side is steep, you can see all the view from the top, and no way would we do this in reverse order. Pitamaken has nice gradual switchbacks. :-) We didn't really enjoy the part where we came down from Dawson into the lake level. It was a bit hard on the knees!

If you time things correctly, you can cut about 2 miles off this hike by taking the boat across Two Medicine Lake. We didn't time things correctly. They run boats at 3:00 and at 5:00. We reached the boat area about 3:10. So, we opted to walk out rather than wait 2 hours for a boat.

We are slowly reaching the end of our "must do" list here, and that is probably a good thing. Many trails are being closed for bear activity. We wanted to hike to Grinnell Glacier, but doubt we can now. I don't know if you all heard the story of Jack Hanna and the grizzlies that resulted in him spraying a young griz....but it was all the rage here. Jack Hanna Article Jack Hanna actually stayed here at the KOA and he very kindly gave me an autographed copy of one of his books when he heard I was a 4th grade teacher.

Old Favorites Repeated: Ptarmigan Tunnel and the Highline Trail

This week we decided to hike two hikes that were favorites from when we were here two years ago. First, we did the Ptarmigan Tunnel trail. Glen had hiked it with Kyle last time, but it was new for Terry. The photo above is Ptarmigan Lake where we stopped to rest and enjoy some Clif bars before continuing to climb up to the tunnel.

Just past the lake we saw the biggest marmot we have ever seen. Glen says it was the "king" marmot! He was the size of a small beagle. (Watch out, Rosebud!)

Above, you can see Terry going through the tunnel. It was carved out here and was used by people and horses in the early days in the park. It still can be be accessed by horses, and we actually saw one girl on her horse on the trail the day we hiked it. There are big metal doors to close off the tunnel in the winter. Unlike most tunnels where cars or trains go through near the bottom of the mountain, this tunnel is near the top.

Here is the view you see when you go through the tunnel. It is a valley and lakes that of course is hidden the entire time you are climbing the other side of the mountain.

Glen is posing in front of the great view. We stayed for a few minutes and admired the view, saw the local marmot, and then went back through the tunnel to head down. We saw a bighorn sheep on our way down.

There were several beautiful waterfalls on the hike. In fact, there were many photographic opportunities. We saw one couple with big backpacks and asked where they were camping overnight. It turns out that the packs were full of photography equipment! We decided they were tough cookies!! Can't even imagine hauling all that to the top of mountains.

The wildflowers are still in bloom, and the devils' paintbrush are coming out. We like this rose colored version of that.

When we got back to the trailhead, we were greeted with a note on our car. It was actually the second time we have had this happen this summer. This one was from a couple from Aroostook County. They saw our license plates and put a note telling us their campsite number and that if we were around in the evening, they would be back and would love to visit. Previously, in Banff, we had a note on our car that just said, "Go, Black Bears!!" We did try to look that couple up, but they were not in their campsite when we went by. Small world!

After a rest day, we were ready to tackle the Highline Trail. This was one we did before on a cloudy, misty day. This time we were treated to brilliant sunshine, and it was a beautiful hike.

When we arrived this summer, the trail sign was just barely sticking out of the snow. You can see that isn't the case now, but there are still traces around.

Mountain goats love this trail, and once again we were treated to many sightings. This one tried to chase Glen a bit, but mostly just wanted to eat!

Views were crystal clear that day and we decided to take lots of photos.

We also decided to take a side trail to Grinnell Glacier Overlook. It climbs 1000 feet in 8 tenths of a mile. (Steep!) Partway up, Terry was questioning the wisdom and wondering if the payoff was worth it. Answer....yep!

Above, you can see the view we earned as we look down on the lake that the glacier is melting into.

Glen once again showing the scale of the view. Then, we descended back down to the Highline Trail and hiked to the Granite Park Chalet. This was our lunch spot.

After the chalet, we hiked downhill to the Loop. This is a location on the Going to the Sun Road where we had left our car that morning. It was an interesting ending as we hiked down with a gentleman from Massachusetts, and we talked all the way.

This ending was different for us, as two years ago we had taken another trail after the chalet.

So, while the two trails this week were somewhat repeats, each had something new about them and we enjoyed them immensely.

Until next time,

Terry and Glen

Banff, Lake Louise, Icefields Parkway, Columbia Icefield

Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada. This was the setting for a four-day mini-vacation. The photo above is from Lake Louise, and we'll give you more details about that area below. We didn't have to earn this particular shot -- even the tourists in flip flops or Guicci loafers were treated to this view -- but that just made some of the other views taste even better.

We drove north, through Calgary, and then west to Banff. Getting through Calgary was a bit more complicated than we expected. (Stupid Walmart Atlas!!!) As the driver, I am willing to admit that it WAS the map, not the navigator that made Calgary a fun time. It was time for the Calgary Stampede, and we ended up driving right through the excitement. An hour later, we did make it through Calgary and were on our way. We snagged a campsite in Tunnel Mountain Campground and then proceeded to explore the town.

The city/town of Banff itself, is like Bar Harbor on steroids. Picture shops, restaurants, and a bazillion tourists, but instead of being located on the ocean it is surrounded by mountains. The first challenge was to find a place to park, and once that was accomplished, we had to choose between dozens of places to eat. Yeah, life's tough. After dinner in a local restaurant, we tried to get back to the campground. It seems that between the time we got our site, and the time we tried to return, everyone from Calgary had finished the work week and wanted to camp in Banff. There was a long line trying to check in to the campground. It would take people over an hour to get from the road into the gatehouse. When we finally got back to our site, we had a good view of the line, and it never ended until they closed the gate at 11:00 pm. I guess we won't complain any longer when we have a few customers in our KOA lobby.

One cool thing about Canada's national parks is that when you sign up for a campsite, they ask you if you want a fire ring. If you say yes, you pay a fee/day. Then, they have this gigantic pile of firewood that you go to and take what you want. So, instead of trying to find a local selling small bundles of wood for exorbitant amount of money, you can really make a fire. We enjoyed this perk all three nights we stayed there.

We were up and away early to go to the Lake Louise area of the park. We wanted to do a hike to "The Plain of Six Glaciers". It starts out around the shore of Lake Louise, and then climbs up to an old tea-house built in the 1920's. (I think-anyway it IS old) All along the way you have incredible views of glaciers ahead of you. It's easy to see why this area has so many visitors, when views like this are accessible to everyone.

We did have to cross a few wet spots. This is where I was wishing I had my waterproof hikers on. I chose to wear just my trail sneakers....and it worked out fine. My rock balancing skills paid off! The camera man was ready just in case of a spill, but things went smoothly.

Above you see some of the glaciers and we actually heard this one break off. It sounded like thunder and echoed off the surrounding mountains. It looked like waterfalls coming off the glacier, but it was really snow. It happened twice while we were on this hike. Now we come to the views that we had to earn, and for some strange reason those pictures always seem to be more beautiful.

This is the view looking back when we had climbed awhile. We started the hike at the chateau you can see at the far end of the lake.

This is after one of the pieces broke off the glacier. You can see the snow falling down like a waterfall. The first time that this happened, we actually thought that we were looking at a waterfall. It wasn't until the snow stopped falling that we realized what must have happened.

This is at the tea house. We had scones with strawberry jam and tea and lemonade. Wish all hikes had a tea house at the top of the climb! It's amazing how good dry scones and tea can taste -- nothing like a hike to whet the appetite.

This big boy was waiting for us the following morning as we decided to drive the Bow Valley Parkway on the way to the Icefields Parkway. We had decided to spend the day on a scenic drive and visiting the Columbia Icefields visitor center.

This is a view of the meltwater and the blue ice on the glacier. The dirt is because glaciers are made from compressed snow. Snow forms around a center of dust or dirt, so when it melts the dirt is left behind.

This is Glen standing on the glacier. It was pretty cold and slippery. We aren't ready to try ice climbing any time soon! It felt like we were standing on a few feet of snow and ice, but the glacier was actually 1000 feet thick at this point.

This big ice bus took us a mile out onto the glacier. It is an amazing machine, but we don't want to buy one. Each one costs a million and a half!! And each tire is $6200.

This is looking from the ice bus to the side on the return journey. You can see the side moraine and above it, is another glacier. I think it was called Double A glacier as the mountains on each side both began with the letter A.

Crypt Lake Hike

July 4th, 2010 was spent mainly in Canada. We woke early and drove to the Chief Mountain border crossing. Since it opens at 7:00 am and we were there at 6:50, we were first in line to cross. Traveling on to Waterton Lakes National Park (The Canadian partner to Glacier) we arrived at the boat dock to purchase tickets, round up a cup of coffee, and get gear ready for the hike.

We took a short boat ride on Waterton Lake to get to the trailhead for the hike to Crypt Lake. We got started a bit late as there was a couple that just had to try to buy tickets at about two minutes to 9:00, and then had to go back to their car to get gear. There always seems to be someone that thinks the world will wait for them!

This hike has been called "Canada's #1 rated dayhike" so we thought it was worth a try. On the way the ranger was informing people about the trail, and thought it would be quite funny to tell people the trail was only 2 and 1/2 to 3 inches wide at one point. (Then he clued them in that it was really 2 and 1/2 to 3 feet)

We were hoping for a good weather hike, and overall it was okay. It was really windy, and we did get sprinkled on, but the rain held off for us. You have to choose a return boat time when you sign up for the hike. There are two boats that drop hikers off in the morning, and two return boats in the afternoon. We opted for the first morning boat and the last afternoon boat in order to allow all the time we wanted for exploring. If the first return boat has space, you are welcome to get on. (We did end up doing that as we were back at the dock in plenty of time)

The trail is about 5 and a half miles one way, and ascends to a high alpine lake. We were told that it was still ice covered, but had started to melt off. The last bit of the hike would be over snow. There was a stream crossing, a ladder, several waterfalls to see, a section of trail with cable, and a tunnel. There was an alternate trail coming down that was just a bit longer, but would take us into a gorge with a nice waterfall. What fun!

Here is a view of one of the waterfalls on the trail. We eventually hiked above it to hit the tunnel and then climbed further up to Crypt Lake. Luckily we didn't have to climb the cliffs, but got to approach it from the left side as you look at it. While there are many rock climbers around that would probably enjoy going straight up, we are not THAT crazy!

This is a close-up view of the tunnel we had to go through. More detail in the next photo and caption.

This is me about to climb a ladder and enter the tunnel area that you can see above it. What you can't see is that the tunnel is short, and hourglass shaped. You have to scooch down, tilt sideways, and move through carefully. It is probably 15 feet long, and if I had to scooch, that tells you how short it was!! The wind was blowing quite hard, so I needed to adjust my hat in order to try to keep it on my head.

This is the exit of the tunnel, and we had to step down from here onto a section of trail that would have some cable to keep you from potential harm. It was skinny here, and you had to wait if people were traveling in the opposite direction.

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This is Crypt Lake. It was pretty cold on this day, but we did sit beside the lake and eat our lunch. We had limited place to sit that wasn't snow-covered, so we didn't stay very long. The blue of the lake was starting to come out as the ice melted, so I imagine that it would be even more beautiful on a bright sunny day.

This photo is looking back toward the tunnel area, and shows the narrow trail leading up to it, the stream we had to cross, and why people with a fear of heights are discouraged from doing this trail. It looks really narrow in the photos, and it is, but it really isn't as terrifying as you might think if you were judging by this photo. (Just don't look to the right as you walk on it!)

I think Glen just like to take pictures of my butt, but..... this photo shows a section of the trail on the way down from Crypt Lake. You can see that we had gorgeous views not only when we reached the top, but all along the way. Coming down was a whole different view overlooking the valley where we started.

While the wildflowers are not yet out in some places, there were some nice patches on this hike. This bunch was in the section of the trail leading to "Hell Roaring Falls". We had some extra time and took this little detour on the return trip. It adds about a half-hour to the hike, but goes down into a small canyon with a stream running through. At one point there are several fallen trees that cross the stream directly above the rapids and look like "pick-up-sticks". We decided that was the point where teenagers could terrify their parents by trying to walk across them. Thankfully our boys were not there to do that to us!

A view of the mountains and lake from the area near the boat dock as we were waiting for the return boat.

While sitting at the boat dock we got to talking with some people about hiking. One lady was recommending "The Wave" to another hiker. We had fun comparing notes since we had also done this hike in Utah. For those interested, you can see information about that here.

The Wave

As we are all loaded on the boat and the horn blows to announce our impending departure, who should come out of the woods and ask the boat to wait for them? You guessed it, the same couple that we waited for in the morning! :)

We finished off this hike with a trip through the shops, a quick bite to eat at Zum's restaurant, and then the return drive to the KOA in St. Mary. We had fireworks that night right at the campground, wrapped up in our hats and warm clothes around a campfire. Great ending to the day.

It was a great hike. We don't know if it is "Canada's #1 dayhike", but all in all it was spectacular.

Also done on this span of "off" days: exploring the town of Whitefish, MT. This little town has a ski area, some great little shops, and an interesting atmosphere. We were pleased to find a bookstore and an organic food store side by side. We got some steel cut oats, some soup mix that we hope to cook up on a camping excursion, and some other goodies. Then we headed back to enjoy a rainy day reading in the campground. We also went to Cut Bank to retrieve the car from the Ford dealer. They fixed it up all under warranty, so we could breathe easy and prepare to explore the area. A bit of laundry and a few runs conclude this section of our excursion. Until next time,

Terry and Glen